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TVR Update
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TreVoR
Nuclear

My Car: Probably Broken

Joined: 19 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2015 10:21 pm    Post subject: TVR Update  Reply with quote

There were a couple of minor issues that needed sorting out.  As one of them was a minor engine issue I didn't want to fiddle myself so took it to the garage.

There was a misfire on starting which cleared when the engine warmed up.  No problems when driving.  It did sound like an injector issue so these were removed and sent for testing.  They all came back with a clean bill of health.  However, on removing the injectors, Steve noticed the PAS fluid reservoir dripping onto an injector plug of the offending misfiring cylinder.

TVR Power have come across this before and it is a good job we caught it early on because the PAS fluid can work its way back to the ECU connections via the loom and capillary action.  

It also needed a new rear caliper and set of rear pads due to the OSR sticking on.  I needed my breaker bar on my wind off tool just to back it off.

I dropped it off last week and I picked it up today.  The weather wasn't great but the roads had dried after an hour of chatting and coffee at Michael's so I got the opportunity to open the taps a bit.   It does pull well, now.  The revs keep climbing on a huge wave of torque and noise and then you go through it all again in the next gear.
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Giant
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2015 11:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your reports are a periodic reminder that whilst I love the idea of having a 'classic' car (inverted commas as I still think of Chaemeras and Griffiths as relatively modern, not being disparaging), the constant maintenance would cause me to have a Basil Fawlty moment after a relatively short period!
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TreVoR
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 9:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you need to have a certain mindset to own an old car and not let the need for maintenance annoy too much.

I was marginally irritated at the bill - parts plus four hours of labour but once I got in it and fired it up, that was forgotten.

It has done 4500 miles since November last year.
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Martin
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 9:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm glad it's well worth the cost/hassle to you and you've managed to catch an issue before it gets serious, but I couldn't cope with it. I was more than a little irritated cost (155) and hassle caused (they provided a car for the day it was off the road) getting a battery replaced on the Boxster.
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Michael
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like the TVR, not sure I could afford to run one but I'm glad others do.

Mark's is a bit special, looks particularly good in that blue and sounds fantastic when blasting away from my driveway.

As I looked at it yesterday I wondered if it could be retrofitted with xenon lights or whatever it is that Singer Porsches used. I suppose because I'd want to modernise it I completely miss the point of classics.
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TreVoR
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 9:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it was a car I needed to use every day then I could see it causing an issue.
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Martin
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it makes you feel better, one of Lindsay's team has a 986 2.7 Boxster, which is now called the 'money pit' as she's spent over 5,000 on it in 12 months!

You might not need it every day, but you're getting decent use out of it, 5,000 miles a year is pretty good.
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TreVoR
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Michael wrote:
I like the TVR, not sure I could afford to run one but I'm glad others do.

Mark's is a bit special, looks particularly good in that blue and sounds fantastic when blasting away from my driveway.

As I looked at it yesterday I wondered if it could be retrofitted with xenon lights or whatever it is that Singer Porsches used. I suppose because I'd want to modernise it I completely miss the point of classics.


One of the TVR club members has fitted Cerbera Speed Six projector lights to his which are HID.  I don't like the look on the Chimaera though and it is expensive as it requires extensive fibreglass work.

It is possible to fit VW Lupo lights in place of the 1960s Scania truck units it currently uses so I supposed HIDs are available.  It doesn't have levelling or washers but then neither did any TVRs originally fitted with HIDs.
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JohnC
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is so TVR - Scania lorry headlights! I love it.
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Roadsterstu
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't you fit halogen Lupo units instead of HIDS for much less cost but better performance?
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gonnabuildabuggy
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reminds why I love the MX5.

No real major issues, looks good, fun to drive but Jap reliability underneath it all.

Did cost me XXX to get both rear sills and other bits close to them welded though, I did splash out an extra 100 on top getting it painted too. Top result as the guy who did it is used to working on Aston Martin's etc but has a nice sideline in MX5 sills.
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Stuntman
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Martin wrote:
If it makes you feel better, one of Lindsay's team has a 986 2.7 Boxster, which is now called the 'money pit' as she's spent over 5,000 on it in 12 months!


Jesus.  The car probably isn't worth much, if any, more that 5k - so presumably she just loves it and is keeping it for the foreseeable future?

I'm genuinely not sure what I'll do with my silver car when the new one arrives.  I've spent a fair chunk of cash replacing worn out parts on it over the last 3 or 4 years and this will probably now become the norm.  I'd like to keep hold if it but realistically it'll probably be for sale to a good home.

Mark, I'm really glad you're still enjoying the TVR.  It has always been a treat seeing and hearing it a few times at Prescott.
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TreVoR
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Roadsterstu wrote:
Can't you fit halogen Lupo units instead of HIDS for much less cist but better performance?


You can, but I don't like the look but I am probably being pedantic.
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Roadsterstu
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

gonnabuildabuggy wrote:
Reminds why I love the MX5.

No real major issues, looks good, fun to drive but Jap reliability underneath it all.

Did cost me 200 to get both rear sills and other bits close to them welded though, I did splash out an extra 100 on top getting it painted too. Top result as the guy who did it is used to working on Aston Martin's etc but has a nice sideline in MX5 sills.


Doesn't sound a bad price actually. Where is that?
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TreVoR
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stuntman wrote:
Martin wrote:
If it makes you feel better, one of Lindsay's team has a 986 2.7 Boxster, which is now called the 'money pit' as she's spent over 5,000 on it in 12 months!


Jesus. The car probably isn't worth much, if any, more that 5k - so presumably she just loves it and is keeping it for the foreseeable future?

I'm genuinely not sure what I'll do with my silver car when the new one arrives. I've spent a fair chunk of cash replacing worn out parts on it over the last 3 or 4 years and this will probably now become the norm. I'd like to keep hold if it but realistically it'll probably be for sale to a good home.

Mark, I'm really glad you're still enjoying the TVR. It has always been a treat seeing and hearing it a few times at Prescott.


May make Prescott next year as things are less hectic.
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Roadsterstu
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 8:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TreVoR wrote:
Roadsterstu wrote:
Can't you fit halogen Lupo units instead of HIDS for much less cist but better performance?


You can, but I don't like the look but I am probably being pedantic.


The fitting looks to be a bit of a pain from a quick Google.
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Martin
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stuntman wrote:
Martin wrote:
If it makes you feel better, one of Lindsay's team has a 986 2.7 Boxster, which is now called the 'money pit' as she's spent over 5,000 on it in 12 months!


Jesus. The car probably isn't worth much, if any, more that 5k - so presumably she just loves it and is keeping it for the foreseeable future?

I'm genuinely not sure what I'll do with my silver car when the new one arrives. I've spent a fair chunk of cash replacing worn out parts on it over the last 3 or 4 years and this will probably now become the norm. I'd like to keep hold if it but realistically it'll probably be for sale to a good home.

Mark, I'm really glad you're still enjoying the TVR. It has always been a treat seeing and hearing it a few times at Prescott.


She bought it less than 12 months ago, so is stuck between a rock etc
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Resident Spanner
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 10:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just pull the projector unit out of the middle of a modern HID light and bolt it in the back of the current reflectors. Done.
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gonnabuildabuggy
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2015 8:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Roadsterstu wrote:
gonnabuildabuggy wrote:
Reminds why I love the MX5.

No real major issues, looks good, fun to drive but Jap reliability underneath it all.

Did cost me 200 to get both rear sills and other bits close to them welded though, I did splash out an extra 100 on top getting it painted too. Top result as the guy who did it is used to working on Aston Martin's etc but has a nice sideline in MX5 sills.


Doesn't sound a bad price actually. Where is that?


A bargain I reckon, guy called Paul Manning (used to run a business called Panelcraft) now based in Sharnbrook, just north of Bedford.
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Roadsterstu
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2015 9:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Worth remembering, thanks. Although the sills have been done some time ago on my dad's Roadster.
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PG
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2015 10:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a mindset thing. If you want to run an older car with some "character" then you're going to have to spend money on it.  The old adage that if you could not afford to run it when it was new, then you can't afford to run it second hand still holds true in my view (see note 1).

Note 1 - this is of course pre man-maths, which allows use of suitable secret  formulas known only to car-people to allow suspension of this reality.
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2015 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a good price for Mk1 sills if it was a decent job, I'd charge about that for them as making the repair panels can be a pain with forming around the wheelarch - and the commercially available patch panels are shit, both in shape and quality.
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TreVoR
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Took the Chimaera for its annual service and MOT.  Considering the car hasn't turned a wheel since November (apart from a quick trip up the road and back a couple of weeks ago) it ran totally faultlessly.  I had forgotten how comfortable and lovely it is to drive and how intoxicating the noise of the V8 when overtaking!  

Anyway, as usual, Steve had some cars in for chassis work.  The red one is rather nice - a Griffith with a V8 Developments 5.0 litre.

The silver one is from a W reg. Chimaera with about 70k or so as is the engine.  Interesting that although the outriggers need replacing and the main rails need some attention, the condition is a lot better than mine was at the same age.  I think this confirms my suspicions that my car lived outside for a lot of its life at some point.

The engine from the car needs a total rebuild - it is knackered - the cam is so worn it was backfiring like Uncle Buck's Mercury apparently!  

IMG_0325 by Mark Lee, on Flickr

IMG_0324 by Mark Lee, on Flickr

IMG_0323 by Mark Lee, on Flickr

IMG_0322 by Mark Lee, on Flickr

IMG_0321 by Mark Lee, on Flickr
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Martin
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It looks like you took a wrong turn into a farm yard...where's the comfy seating, attractive receptionist, free wifi etc?

That red chassis does look rather special.

I assume yours passed the MOT and all is OK?
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TreVoR
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 6:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, Steve's garage is on a farm with a load of other industrial units. The car has been left with him - he dropped me off at the local station and I got the train home.

No thanks to the weather, it took 5 hours and confirms my hatred of public transport.

He was servicing it today (12k big service) and it has its MOT at the garage in the next unit tomorrow afternoon.  It is also getting a new belt tensioner as it is getting noisy.
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Martin
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm with you there, I don't even like the 35min train ride into London.

5 hours?!  You can get a long way in that time.  Hopefully you can get a lift back so you don't have to suffer that again.
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TreVoR
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, 5 hours. 11.23 from Cattal to York which was delayed getting into York so I missed my connection and had to wait for the (late) next train at 11.55 which didn't get in until 12. The train that I missed got hit by an overhead cable in front of us and subsequently broke down so we were stuck behind it.

They managed to divert us as we were on an old diesel 125 so I finally got into Newcastle at 14.20 instead of 12.50. The next train to Prudhoe where Lindsey was picking me up (end of the line due to a landslide and my refusal to get on a bus), was not until 14.55 but that didn't leave Newcastle until nearly 15.20. I got home at 16.20.
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TreVoR
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Forgot to mention, the same journey this morning by car took 1 hour 20 minutes.
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Chris M Wanted a V-10
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TreVoR wrote:
Forgot to mention, the same journey this morning by car took 1 hour 20 minutes.

That's a long way to go for a service and MOT. I can walk home from the place that used to service the Galaxy and the Scenic in around an hour.
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TreVoR
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 9:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris M Wanted a V-10 wrote:
TreVoR wrote:
Forgot to mention, the same journey this morning by car took 1 hour 20 minutes.

That's a long way to go for a service and MOT. I can walk home from the place that used to service the Galaxy and the Scenic in around an hour.


I don't really want to use my local TVR specialist 20 minutes up the road. I could use a local garage or do it myself but I want to keep the car's history intact as much as possible with a relevant specialist - particularly as values are on the up and specialist history is very important for the value of these cars, even if they are simple things.
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TreVoR
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2016 8:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Back from its service and MOT.  It needed a steering UJ (in a stupid place in the wheel arch) and the sump needed re-sealing as there was a slight oil leak.

Took the scenic way home with the roof off and it felt fantastic.  The steering joint must have been sticky for a while as felt very communicative.  Engine is getting better and better the more miles it does.
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TreVoR
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2016 7:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Went for a little road trip today.  Up to Hexham for petrol and then on to Allendale, Allenheads, Rookhope and Stanhope before heading home.  I stopped at the village shop for a pint of milk and the bastard wouldn't start.   Marginally embarrassing but at least I could walk home for my booster pack.

I should have paid attention to the last couple of times it was slow turning over as it looks like the battery has given up.  I had a spare in the garage so duly fitted it (eventually) and all is well.

There is a battery in there somewhere (riveted into a box bolted through the floor of the car at the bottom of the passenger footwell).

IMG_0434 by Mark Lee, on Flickr

IMG_1187 by Mark Lee, on Flickr

IMG_1186 by Mark Lee, on Flickr

IMG_1185 by Mark Lee, on Flickr

IMG_1181 by Mark Lee, on Flickr
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2016 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TreVoR wrote:


IMG_1181 by Mark Lee, on Flickr


It looks very clean and shiny in that picture!
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TreVoR
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2016 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Autoglym HD wax.  Easily the best stuff I have ever used.  I give it one or two applications a year and it just had one a couple of weeks ago.
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JohnC
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2016 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would have thought that even a fading battery would have had enough power to restart the car after a decent run - could it be alternator trouble?

Does the battery sit down under the floor?
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TreVoR
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2016 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Battery sits on top of the floor at bottom of the footwell - the box it sits in is bolted through the floor.

The alternator is giving a healthy 13.8 volts at the battery when the engine is on and switching heater and lights makes no difference to this - first thing I checked was the 100A fuse from the alternator (this sits on the chassis rail and is a common source of failure.

The battery has a good voltage but it won't supply any current so a cell is dying.  Luckily I had a spare lying around.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 12:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Depends what battery you have, 13.8 is nowhere near enough float voltage for a modern calcium/silver calcium battery, need more like 14.4 to 14.8v
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TreVoR
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 8:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Standard lead/acid car battery - nothing fancy - 13.7 is within what the manual reckons is OK for the TVR.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 9:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

See how it goes, but you won't put much charge back into a battery at 13.7v on any shorter runs or when it gets stood for a while.
Some of the silver/calcium enchanced lead acids these days charge at 16v for a short period after starting to bump the charge back up
I would have thought if you were a cell down you'd see it on the voltage with the old battery, that's usually the first indicator, if it's the right voltage but not enough current it's more likely sediment build up on the plates.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I must say the alternator on the A8 used to push out about 16V at the battery. Mind you the battery was as big as my R1 engine!
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TreVoR
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Resident Spanner wrote:
See how it goes, but you won't put much charge back into a battery at 13.7v on any shorter runs or when it gets stood for a while.
Some of the silver/calcium enchanced lead acids these days charge at 16v for a short period after starting to bump the charge back up
I would have thought if you were a cell down you'd see it on the voltage with the old battery, that's usually the first indicator, if it's the right voltage but not enough current it's more likely sediment build up on the plates.


Interesting - I will check the fuse link again - may change it anyway to be on the safe side and I will put the old battery on a recondition cycle.

It is on a trickle charge whenever it is in the garage.

ETA:  All the posts on PH in relation to charging voltage point to it being between 13.5-14v maximum.


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TreVoR
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Big Blue wrote:
I must say the alternator on the A8 used to push out about 16V at the battery. Mind you the battery was as big as my R1 engine!


That will have been a smart alternator though.  My alternator is the same Magnetti Marelli that is in my two Land Rovers!
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, but usually it's the smart alternators that charge at 15-16v then drop right down and float at 13.5v-13.8v to reduce gassing, most 'dumb' alternators (unless they're for old 'period' design lead acids, where 13.8v was the best voltage to avoid gassing) will just sit at 14.2v-14.8v (Usually 14.4v)

Lower just sulphates the plates and then you end up with the right voltage but very low cranking amps. Which may be what's happened to your old one, sometimes a pulse charger that can do PWM charging at 15v+ peaks will knock the sulphation off and it'll be good again.
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TreVoR
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 11:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TVR specialist has confirmed that the voltage should be no more than 14V in a Chimaera.

Having a look on the LR forums (same alternator) suggests the same.
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Resident Spanner
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Depends as much on the battery fitted as the alternator, especially modern maintenance free batteries.
If you have a look on the LR forums if it is the same unit, you'll find most of the modified ones drop a diode in line to bring the charge voltage up to use with modern batteries.
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TreVoR
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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2016 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

All has been fine since fitting the new battery.

The went for a run at the weekend and noticed my car leaking coolant when hot but the temperature was normal and the fans kept it at 90 in traffic.

I check the levels weekly. The cooling is marginal on these and they have a swirl pot arrangement to try and get rid of bubbles and send them to the expansion tank but inevitably, some do end up in the radiator and I always undo the bleed screw when I check the levels. It turns out I hadn't done it up tight enough as it was spraying out under pressure.  

Topped up and run up to temperature and no more dripping.
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Roadsterstu
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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2016 8:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Phew!
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gooner
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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2016 11:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad it was driver error this time Mark, look forward to seeing, and hearing it, in a few weeks.
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TreVoR
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PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2016 1:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It may not have been driver error.  I used the car today and it spewed coolant all over the place when I got back home after a long run.  They are prone to letting a little out of the expansion cap but not half a litre of the stuff!

I had a spare cap and have replaced it.  I took it for a run and, touch wood, it seems to be holding pressure.
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Martin
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PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2016 2:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hopefully that's the end of it.  You don't realise how much patience you have....I sighed when checking the oil level in Boxster Monday evening when the computer said it would take 45 secs to measure the level and again the other day when I got the slowest fuel pump in the world....I hate filing up enough as it is.  I won't go on!

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