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Grampa

non-resident Spannerman - 8hrs of swearing and cursing!

Not my car but my daughters - she added a nasty scar to her wing and bumper so when a breaking X-Type of the same colour appeared on a local selling site, a wing at £20 and a bumper negotiated down to £50 was too much of a stroke of good luck to miss (the 3.0V6 engine was also tempting!!).

So that was the easy bit - I thought it might take 3-4 hours to fit - but no, all the silly fittings that manufacturers use to fit bumpers, wheel arch liners and trim fought me every step of the way.

The bolt-on-wing even need the strut top bolts removing just to loosen a little plate that was obstructing the wing from being lifted high enough to clear my a measly 5mm!

And there was me thinking a bolt on factory wing might bolt straight on - no - loads of heaving on bits of wood to bend bits, loosen, tighten, remove, adjust, loosen, tighten - perhaps I'm being too picky to get perfect alignment and panel gaps, but I want it to be as if Jaguar had done it.

Then on the home straight, the bloody driving lamps (still in the replacement bumper) wouldn't plug in, so then the lights (held at one point with bloody rivets) - if anyone ever takes it apart again, I hope they forgive the self tappers where once there was rivets or funny clips that disintegrate when you undo them.

Finally done just as the light was fading - phew







Nice Guy Eddie

Good work, I'd have given up after 10 minutes.
Martin

Nice Guy Eddie wrote:
Good work, I'd have given up after 10 minutes.


+1 although to be honest, I would never have started as I know my tolerance and skill levels well enough.
JohnC

Modern cars do seem to have lots of plastic clips that become brittle and useless after a couple of years. The problem is you don't have a clue what you need until you start breaking them all!

Good work.
Grampa

Yep - I'd collected what I could from the donor car - surprisingly few plastic clips (the Mini uses those and they work really well) - the PIA fittings were mostly torx screws that go into silly clips - the screws run in to the fitting then as soon as you put any effort into turning them, the clip lets go with no way to reach the clip and even on the two I could reach they were too flimsy to get sufficient grip on them - in the end the only option was a grinder.
PG

Very impressive bit of self spannering there. I'd have handed the parts to my tame local mechanic and said "over to you".
Roadsterstu

Lovely job.

Can I be pedantic and point out that the driving lamps are actually fog lights....
Grampa

Roadsterstu wrote:
Lovely job.

Can I be pedantic and point out that the driving lamps are actually fog lights....


You may - they are indeed the fog lights - concentrating on the other parts of the post.
Blarno

Good work. I feel your pain somewhat - I still haven't refitted the 2 under shields on the Saab because they're a mammoth pain in the arse. A good chunk of the initial teardown was removal of the various covers that adorn the engine and underside. They often use flimsy clips that break, or the fixings have rusted and require drilling out.
TreVoR

I hate bodywork. I attempted a repair of a blister on the Defender's bonnet with a rattle can. It looked fine for a few weeks after polishing it but it seems there has been a reaction between paints.

It is going to have to go to a body shop to have a proper job on it.
Resident Spanner

Yes, it's a complete pain in the arse job for a wing on an X-type - ideally to make it easiest you need the undertray off, splitter removed, fog lamps out, both sides inner arch panels removed, bumper off, headlights out, side indicators out, bonnet lifters removed and the reinforcing panels from the strut tops before you can even unbolt the wing.

If it's any consolation, I'm welding the X-type up outside on the road so I have to remove and replace it every time I work on it, I've done it about 15 times on that car alone now and I've got the job down to about 5-10 minutes, instead of the half a day of swearing the first time around!

Oh, and if it's the other side wing you have to unfasten the water header tank too as it locks onto the stupid strut plate with castellated plastic piece.


Hope you checked the sills whilst the covers were off!?
Blarno

I tried to remove the headlights on my mate's A4 the other week. Gave up after I'd got the front bumper off and realised I needed a 300mm long T30 Torx to reach the final bolt.
Clunes

Looks like it would have just polished out to me ;)
Chris M Wanted a V-10

Wouldn't it have been easier to get a good body shop to fill the dent in the wing, and re-spray? I can understand changing the entire bumper being cheaper (and quicker) than getting a smart repair company to sort out the old one though
Grampa

Resident Spanner wrote:
Yes, it's a complete pain in the arse job for a wing on an X-type - ideally to make it easiest you need the undertray off, splitter removed, fog lamps out, both sides inner arch panels removed, bumper off, headlights out, side indicators out, bonnet lifters removed and the reinforcing panels from the strut tops before you can even unbolt the wing.

If it's any consolation, I'm welding the X-type up outside on the road so I have to remove and replace it every time I work on it, I've done it about 15 times on that car alone now and I've got the job down to about 5-10 minutes, instead of the half a day of swearing the first time around!

Oh, and if it's the other side wing you have to unfasten the water header tank too as it locks onto the stupid strut plate with castellated plastic piece.


Hope you checked the sills whilst the covers were off!?


The headlights didn't have to come off and if the fog lamps would have used the same connectors or light fittings I wouldn't have had to swap the fog lamps either - just one connector to undo for the bumper to come off.  All I had to do with the NS arch liner was undo the front then I could wedge it open enough with a piece of wood to be able to get my hands into the one bolt that holds the bumper to the wing.

I had to remove the plate on top of the strut, but there was enough wiggle room not to have to remove the bonnet support strut.

I guess it would have been a lot quicker refitting the same wing, but I was surprised how much pushing and bending it took to get a good fit from one from another car - I had a sturdy piece of 3x4 and had to wedge it agains the wing and push on it with my legs whilst lying on the floor to push it in enough, plus give it some nasty whacks at the bottom and where it meets the A pillar - hither there was perhaps a bit of butchery on its removal I don't know.

As yes, happy to report with the front half of the sill cover off (it was flexible enough not to have remove the whole thing) all looked OK behind - something I was wary of after your experience!  I threw a load of wax oil in there, though I suspect it's something that needs doing from the inside - 'yours' looked like it was inside out rot - blocked drain holes that allowed water to stay in the sill?

Chris M Wanted a V-10 wrote:
Wouldn't it have been easier to get a good body shop to fill the dent in the wing, and re-spray? I can understand changing the entire bumper being cheaper (and quicker) than getting a smart repair company to sort out the old one though


Would have cost a lot more than the £20 that the wing cost though. I don't factor in my time for such a thing - a. anyone who has grown up daughters will know that you're on call for decorating, laying floors, putting up shelves etc etc and b. aside from the obstinate fixings it was nice to get my teeth into a more meaty job on a car once again.
gonnabuildabuggy

JohnC wrote:
Modern cars do seem to have lots of plastic clips that become brittle and useless after a couple of years. The problem is you don't have a clue what you need until you start breaking them all!

Good work.


Indeed. It's not the putting it together, it's the taking it apart that often hardest.

Nice job.
Resident Spanner

No, it's not blocked drain holes, it's the actual design of the outer skin on the sill - they run so close the actual structural skin from the mondeo that they trap water between them and rust, and then that prevents any water from draining forwards from the inner sill to the drain holes, or down from the bonnet scuttle (the water there drains down the inside of the skin at the front) and the whole thing rots front to back from the inside out.
So yes, a good tap down them all with a small hammer rather than a visual inspection is required - it quite often looks fine visually!


If you take the headlights out it's much easier to clip the bumper to the wing on that stupid sliding plastic block and get everything lined up.
Grampa

Resident Spanner wrote:
No, it's not blocked drain holes, it's the actual design of the outer skin on the sill - they run so close the actual structural skin from the mondeo that they trap water between them and rust, and then that prevents any water from draining forwards from the inner sill to the drain holes, or down from the bonnet scuttle (the water there drains down the inside of the skin at the front) and the whole thing rots front to back from the inside out.
So yes, a good tap down them all with a small hammer rather than a visual inspection is required - it quite often looks fine visually!


If you take the headlights out it's much easier to clip the bumper to the wing on that stupid sliding plastic block and get everything lined up.


So would a few drill holes long the sill, long enough to go through all skins be a wise move?  If so, now you've see the inner construction, how long a drill would be needed and any wires or pipes running through the sills that would make poking around with a drill a bad idea?

A well placed thump was all that was needed to clip the bumper home into those funny blocks.
Resident Spanner

Yeah, that's the way I usually do them but it does tend to rub the paint on the undercorner of the wing doing it like that, not that you can see it anyway :D

There's no wires or pipes as but if it's an automatic then the ECU sits in the passenger side front of the sill, right behind where the fusebox connectors panel is (which also extend into a sill, great idea when it drains water through!)

It certainly wouldn't be a bad idea to pop a couple of drain holes in either side of the seam to let out what can't come through the normal seam drains. There's 3 skins at the front but they're only 0.9/2.0/1.6mm thickness so don't need to go mad.

Mind, you'll be doing well if there's no corrosion - I haven't seen a single one yet that didn't need some repair work!
Grampa

Thanks - I'm sure there's some (plenty even) corrosion already there - it's just a question of taking any steps that might halt it's progress - letting any water out would can only help.  Like many cars of this age, it will probably be kept until something happens to send it to the scrapyard - if drilling a few holes can add a year to its life, then it makes sense - hell, I could even sell the bumper and wings - they'd be easy to take off now!
Resident Spanner

I'd drill a few holes and get a good spray of waxoil/dynax in both sides, especially at the front.
Might halt what's already started.
Grampa

Will do - many thanks for the help and insight
Resident Spanner

Might save a phonecall saying "Dad, my car has done this, can you have a look at it?"




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